Yellow underwear?

So the week started us out in Puno.  Sunday we worked on Self-Reliance activities, meeting a couple of the bishops of two wards we attended and getting their contact information and then in the afternoon we held a self-reliance meeting with leaders from the Puno Central Stake.  We had hoped to pick their brains about what they are doing and see if we could share ideas but we quickly found out that even with a great leader who is very self-reliance oriented, Fredy Apaza, minimal work is being done in Puno.  However, Fredy, is now in the stake presidency and so we are confident more emphasis on self-reliance is gong to happen.  We taught them about the four spiritual principles of self-reliance and then reviewed the new programs and got them excited.  After our meeting we crashed a YSA meeting where Brother Apaza was speaking on...self-reliance!  He called us up out of the audience and had us speak as well.

Sunday afternoon we had a unique experience.  We were out on the main square as it was only steps away from our hotel when along came what is called a tuna group.  This tradition dates back to the middle ages and thus the members of the group dress in medieval garb.  They are a wandering ministral group and their specialty is romantic ballads.

We were treated to a romantic ballad and one of the group members encouraged Dave to dance with me so we danced together on the main square of Puno with a crowd of tourist snapping photos.  Afterwards, a young man from Israel came up and offered to send us his video of the whole thing, but as it turned out, his camera had malfunctioned and it wasn't there.  Too bad.  We talked with him for some time.  Tried to do some missionary work with him, but he didn't seem too interested in religious matters.  He told us he was a non-practicing Jew and he had a pretty synical outlook on life.

One of the things fun about Sunday was seeing a number of missionaries that we had previously worked with in Cusco that are now serving in Puno.  One of our favorites, Elder Talavera, is now a zone leader there.

I also was able to take a photo with one of the members after church.  I've been dying to get a photo of the typical inca ladies garb and a member came dressed appropriately so I asked for a photo.  Here it is.  She was so short!  But so sweet.

Monday morning we left again early for another day of sightseeing.  This time our goal was a ruin site just over the border into Bolivia, called Tiahuanaco.  Dave had heard his older brother talk about this place when he served back in the 60's and was anxious to see it first hand.  It was a three hour drive to the border.

On the way, our guide surprised us and stopped at a small village and said there was an ancient ruin site he wanted to show us that wasn't planned.  This is what we saw we when go there.

Any guesses as to the purpose of these ruins?  Well, check out below and I think if you can't figure it out yet, you will by the time you see the photo Dave is in

Yes, to our embarrassment our guide told us this was used as a fertility temple in pre-Inca times.  Women that had fertility issues would come and go through rituals that supposedly would fix the problem.  I wonder what the success rate was?  Dave has got a hold of the main attraction.  We tried not to stay too long at this site.

Our guide then took us into the small village and had us look around the main plaza.  The church was falling into disrepair.  This was definitely off of the typical tourist route.

But to it's credit, it did have some lovely stone designs worked into the concrete of the plaza.  Here are a couple of examples.

 We did drive past a bullfighting ring in one of the small towns.  I was very surprised because I didn't think Peru held any bullfights.

We finally made it to the border and what we thought would be a quick 20-30 minute wait to go through customs ended up being a 3 hour ordeal.  There was a line out into the street on the Peru & Bolivia side.  I think due to the holidays and people traveling to visit families.  If that had been the only problem, it wouldn't have been so bad.

But when we got up to the immigration window in Bolivia, the lady at the counter did not extend a warm Bolivian welcome.  Now keep in mind that the Bolivian government is socialist/communist and we learned that North Americans are not well liked by the people.

We had been told we'd be able to cross using our Peruvian ID cards and not have to pay to get a visa.  Considering that we were only going to cross and be in Bolivia for a few hours that was preferable, as they can charge up to $130 per person for a visa.

The immigration official took one look at my ID and then at me and asked where I was from.  I told her I was living in Cusco.  She was happy with that answer.  She asked me what my nationality was.  I knew telling her US was going to doom me but what else was I going to say?  Sure enough as soon as she heard american, she insisted we pay for a visa.  We protested, our guide protested.  She was having none of it.

This meant we had to go in yet another line and deal with all the red tape there.  We managed to only have to pay $50 per person for a visa valid for 30 days, but in the process they lost my paperwork from Peru that I needed to get back in the country was we finished sightseeing.  I was not happy.  I had visions of being stuck in Bolivia for who knows how long.  That didn't happen, thankfully.

Here's our visa tag, 360 bolivianos which comes to about $50 US.  Dave was happy that at least for our money we got a stamp in our passports showing we have visited Bolivia.  A bit expensive, if you ask me.

But the important thing is we got through and finally arrived at Tiahuanaco, the famous ruins that Dave so longed to see.  Below is right at the entrance.  Our guide is showing us a stone that amplified sound, just like a megaphone.

Below is a photo at the top of the hill.  Now there is only a large cavity, but previously they say a pyramid was built on top of this.

The photo below shows the excavation site.  It was quite large.  Behind us where the statue is found that David so wanted to see.  But I included this so you could see how windy it was.  Just as we got to the site the winds picked up and you could tell a storm was headed our way.  So we had to quickly view the site.

Looking below at the area of the heads.  All four walls around this area, had carved heads 170 of them of the government leaders.

The photo below shows some original stone work that was just unearthed back in 2005-6.

Walking from this newly uncovered area, you could see the top of the heads courtyard and the upper level where the Puerta del Sol is located.

From the far side of the heads courtyard looking over to the upper complex.

Above is a close up of the stone basilica in the middle of the heads courtyard.  Below is looking into the upper courtyard from the side of the heads courtyard.

And this is the famous statue that Dave so wanted to see.  He is convinced that this represents the two sticks of Judah & Joseph that are prophesied to become one and this is a prophet holding them.  Of course, the guide told us this represents the pre-Inca god, Wiracocha and that in one hand he is holding a stick that represents the religious aspect and the other stick represents the governmental aspect.

On the other end of the compound, is this large statue which is another representation of the two scrolls or sticks.  This time he is holding them in front of him.

 Also the guide was quite excited to show us these rocks and how they were "mystical" due to the magnetic forces within them.  He showed how the compass pointed north away from the rock, but as he put the compass over the rock the needle was pulled totally in the opposite direction.  Dave says it was due to the iron content of the rocks, nothing more than that, but the guide was pretty convinced that these rocks held magical or mystical powers.

At this point our tour ended due to the downpour that finally hit.  We ran for cover but ended up soaked.  I had put my poncho on in anticipation so it wasn't so bad for me, but Dave was one soaking puppy.

We dried off the best we could, hopped back into our waiting taxi and speed back to the border, where we got out of Bolivia after having to wait in another long line.  Then we had to pass the Peruvian border check.  Not having my paper was a problem, but not as much as I had feared.  I had to fill out another paper and that delayed us but nothing more than that.

By this time it was almost nightfall when we were supposed to have been back to Puno.  We ended up not getting back until 9 pm and we had to drive through a lot of rain and snow.  The higher pass was covered with the white stuff, they call hail, but it looks just like snow to us.  The driver had to take it easy after fishtailing a couple of times.  We were grateful our hotel room had a nice big bathtub to soak in hot water.  But the first thing I noticed when we got back to our room was what had been hanging over our bed all this time - a tapestry of the very image we had traveled all the way to Bolivia to see!

The next day we hoped on a bus to return to Cusco, this time it was a direct route with no stops, but the perk was the bus had seats that were larger and well spaced with plenty of leg room because they could tilt back almost into a bed.  We thought we were in heaven.  What a nice way to travel across county.

The next day was New Year's Eve.   New Years is a bit different down here as well, but not as much as Christmas is.  Yellow is the color, however.  They believe that the color yellow represents luck.  We first saw it in the market when we started to notice all these vendors with yellow underwear.  What's with the yellow underwear everywhere we thought?

Then we noticed it again on New Year's Eve.  Yellow flowers everywhere in the market and people walking down the street carrying yellow flowers.  We would pass one person after another with yellow flowers.

Then when we went to the New Year's Eve party at the chapel, a number of the members were wearing yellow items.  Apparently, parties in the chapels is what they do here.  Every chapel hosted a party and we could have party hopped if we wanted to, but we decided to stay close to home and just go to the Tullumayu party.

Loud music and non-stop dancing was how they celebrated, which people of all ages there.  We danced a bit, but quickly tired due to the altitude I think.  We still can't keep up with the natives even though we now have plenty of months under our belts living at this altitude.

Then at midnight, everyone hugs one another and wishes them a Feliz Ano Nuevo and yellow confetti is tossed everywhere, especially over your head (see Elder Rhoades below), to hopefully sprinkle luck your way I think.

Then after all the celebrating winds down, they serve a dinner.  We had a porkchop and a couple of boiled potatoes, peeled with nothing on it.  I didn't eat anything but Dave said he took one bite of the potato and about chocked as it tasted like a cross between turpentine and motor oil.  One bite was enough for him.  We didn't stick around much after that and made our exit at 12:30, but supposedly they party until the wee hours of the morning, 3-4 am.  That explains why New Year's Day is so quiet.  Everyone is finally at home, sleeping!

Later in the day we made visits to the families we are working with and brought them goodies and presents.  We gave them each a homemade Yahtzee game set and with the Guerras we stayed and played with them so they could see how it works until 11 pm.  And I was finally able to eat paneton, the holiday bread that you see everywhere selling in the stores.  

Apparently, the tradition during the holidays is to eat paneton (a sweet bread with little bits of dried fruit and raisins) and drink hot chocolate.  Dave refused to try the paneton, thinking it would be just like fruitcake, but it's not nearly as bad, a bit dry but that's all.  I quite liked it.

The next day Friday, Jan 2, we tried to get back to a regular workday routine.  We didn't quite make it, but it was closer to normal.  We did attend a baptism of the daughter of a sister in Tullumayu ward that was going to help us in the center but it didn't work out.  

They must have some money because after the baptism they threw a birthday party as her birthday was just the day before, Jan. 1 and invited all the people who attended the baptism to come. 

Here is the birthday and baptism girl, Eliza Since Lechuga.  We think her favorite color is pink as everything was in pink.

Saturday we had our third lesson with our Self-Employment pilot group and we had good attendance and good discussions.  It was encouraging.  We hope our group members are benefiting from their participation.

We feel like 2015 got off to a good start.  This whole year, practically, we will be missionaries here in Peru.  I'm sure we are in for a very interesting and exciting 2015.  We hope we will do a lot of good for the people here in Peru.

Spiritual Thought for the Week: "Caring for the poor and needy is a fundamental gospel doctrine and an essential element in the eternal plan of salvation.  As followers of the Savior, we have a personal responsibility to care for the poor and the needy.  Faithfully caring for the poor and the needy is a reflection of spiritual maturity and will bless both the giver and the receiver."  Bishop Dean M Davies "The Law of the Fast"  General Conference October 2014